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Paints Informations
FAQ on:
Paints Related FAQ's
Q:Aren’t all paints basically the same?
A:No they are not. Different types of paints perform different functions. Some have better moisture resistance, some have better color and gloss retention, etc.
Q:My can of oil based paint seems a little thick. Can I thin it?
A:Yes. For brush/roller as well s as spray gun applications acetone can be used for thinning. Mineral spirits can be used for clean up only due to clean air regulations
Q:What is the difference between the Stops Rust paints and the Farm Equipment paints?
A: Both products offer rust preventive and weather resistant qualities. The Farm Equipment colors are designed to offer visual color matches to popular farm equipment colors.
Q:Why do I have to wait before applying a second coat?
A:Observing the proper dry times between coats helps prevent wrinkling, which happens when paint folds, lifts or crinkles.
Q:Why should I use a primer?
A:Primer provides added protection by preparing the surface for a smoother finish coat and improves adhesion of the top coat. Additionally, Stop Rust Clean Metal Primers, Rusty Metal Primers and Auto Primers help prevent surface rusting.
Q:What type of brush should I use if both oil- and water-based paints are being applied?
A:Nylon and polyester blend paint brushes work well in both oil- and water-based paints.
Q:How should I care for my brush so that it maintains its performance level use after use?
A:Clean it immediately after use with paint thinner or kerosene for bristle brushes, soap and water for nylon/polyester brushes. Use a brush comb to clean and straighten the bristles. Don’t soak your brush for extended periods of time or it may lose its shape. If possible, store your brush by hanging it and don’t store a brush on its tips
Q:When purchasing paint, I’ve been asked if I want flat, high-gloss, satin or even an eggshell finish. What do these terms mean and does it really make any difference what kind of finish I have?
A:These terms refer to the sheen or gloss level of the paint and, yes, it does make a difference which one you use. The sheen or gloss level simply means the degree of light reflectance of the paint. The terms you mention are ones that various manufacturers use to describe the shininess of their products. Your local independent paint retailer can recommend the type of gloss you need for your particular paint project.
Q:Should certain brushes be used with certain paints?
A:Generally, there are two types of paint brushes: those made of natural-hair bristles and those made with synthetic materials (usually nylon or polyester). Natural bristle brushes are preferred for use with solvent-based (oil- or alkyd-based) paints, especially for enamel or finish work. Natural bristles are hollow and can absorb the water contained in a latex paint, causing them to swell and become soft and limp (like your own hair when it’s wet).
Most synthetic brushes work well with both latex and solvent-based paints, but always check the manufacturer’s recommendations on the brush. Some of the solvents used in solvent-based paints can break down the composition of a synthetic bristle. Once again, check the label.
 
Q:Is an expensive brush really that much better than a cheap one?
A:High-quality or more expensive brushes have distinct advantages over the cheaper ones. First of all, a high-quality brush will finish the job more quickly. This is because a top-quality brush has the ability to "hold" more paint in reservoir, which means you will spend less time "painting the can" than applying the paint to the surface.
Also, a top-quality brush will have a tapered end, which means there are shorter bristles on the outside and longer bristles in the center. Tapered bristles give the painter more control over where and how much paint goes onto the surface.
A top-quality brush will also not shed bristles like a cheaper brush, because of how firmly the bristles are seated in the ferrule (the metal band that attaches the bristles to the handle).
The quality of a brush is also determined by the material used as plugs (space plugs inside the ferrule that bond the bristles in the ferrule, add taper to the bristles, and finally create "wells" in the center of the bristles to hold paint) in the ferrule.
Q:How can I prevent oxidation?
A:For the most part, oxidation can only take place when the surface of your car’s finish has deteriorated from abuse or neglect to the point where the once impermeable surface has become permeable and then left unprotected. Deterioration is caused by, neglect, washing with detergent washes (dish soap), the leaching and drying-out effect due to repeated exposure to inclement weather, baking in hot sun, natural wear and tear, and through the natural process of breaking down. (Law of Entropy)
The best way to prevent oxidation is to,
• Always wash your vehicles finish using a non-detergent, premium car wash specifically formulated for automotive finishes.
• Add a protective coating of wax, (natural, synthetic, or blended) to your finish a minimum of 3-4 times a year. The most important thing you can do to prevent oxidation besides washing is to protect the paint you presently have with a protective coating. A good protective coating will act as a barrier-film that will prevent moisture from coming into direct contact with your paint.
• Remove pore-imbedding stains (contaminants in the paint) by using a premium paint cleaner or cleaner polish at least once a year and more often if needed.
• Whenever possible, park under cover.
• Use a car cover to shield against airborne contamination and UV rays.
Q:Should I prep my paint before waxing?
A:

The way to determine whether or not your car''s finish needs any pre-wax prep work is to evaluate the surface, immediately after washing. A thorough surface evaluation will help you to determine whether or not you need to remove above surface defects such as bonded contaminants with a clay bar, or below surface defects such as swirls, scratches, oxidation and pore-imbedding stains.
Just because your paint has no major scratches or other obvious signs of damage doesn''t mean that your finish is as flawlessly smooth as when your car was show room new. There are many kinds of subtle surface defects that if not corrected, can prevent you from restoring that perfect gloss.
There are two primary kinds of surface defects to look for, Above Surface Contaminants, and Below Surface Defects.

Above Surface Contaminants Below Surface Defects
• Road film
• Bug splatter
• Road tar
• Tree sap mist
• Dirt and dust
• Fresh bird droppings
• Baked on bird dropping
• Overspray
• Air-borne pollution
• Mineral deposits • Random, isolated scratches
• Cobweb-effect
• Buffer Swirl
• Oxidation
• Pore imbedding stains
• Chemical etching
• Acid rain spots
• Etching from bird droppings

Q:How do I perform a Surface Evaluation?
A:You''ll want to inspect the surface both visually, as well as by physically using your sense of touch. Sometimes your sense of touch can reveal defects the eyes cannot see.
First, wash and dry your vehicle. Then look along your paint surface at an angle while noting the depth and richness of the color.
Search for:
• Swirl marks
• Scratches
• Etched areas
• Fading
• Dulling
• Oxidation
• Overspray
A photographer''s loupe or magnifying glass will make it even easier to identify any problem areas. Ideally, do this in bright sunlight as well as under strong indoor lights because some defects show up best under specific types of lighting conditions.
To find bonded contaminants that your eyes may have missed, slowly slide the face of your clean, dry hand along the surface of your car''s finish after washing and drying your car. The surface should feel as smooth as glass.
Q:How can I remove fresh stains, water spots, and smears on my car's finish?
A:The best way to get rid of fresh stains, water spots and smears is to remove them
as quickly as possible, before they have a chance to bake into the paint or cause permanent damage.
Q:How to apply paint to different suffaces?
A:
  Surface Preparation Guide.
 
Incomplete or insufficient preparation is the single greatest cause of paint failures. All surfaces should be sound, clean and dry before painting. Use the guidelines below to prepare your surfaces for painting.
 
STEP 1
Remove dirt, grease, oil and chemicals
Dirt, grease, oil or chemicals may interfere with the adhesion of paint. Clean your surface with soap and water, household cleaner or trisodium phosphate (TSP) solution.
Do not use solvents to clean surfaces. Solvents tend to smear grease and oil and levae residue on your surface. Strong solvents can also soften a previous finish and make your new paint application susceptible to wrinkling.
 
STEP 2
Remove loose rust, as well as chipping or peeling paint
Create a smooth surface before applying your primer and/or base coat. Painting over loose rust will result in poor adhesion and an uneven finish.
Remove loose rust or paint by sanding or scraping your surface with a wire brush, sandpaper, steel wool or a scraper. Sand glossy surfaces lightly. Do not sand old paint that may contain lead.
 
STEP 3
Rinse and let dry
Rinse your surface and allow it to dry completely before applying a primer or top coat.
 
STEP 4
Apply a primer
Priming is recommended to increase the adhesion of your top coat to your surface. Priming also provides a thicker film buildup, which increases durability and creates a flatter and smoother surface for applying your top coat.
Priming is suggested on these surfaces:
 
Bare Metal
Priming makes your top coat adhere more smoothly to bare metal. Priming also adds to the rust-inhibitive function of your coating.
Bare Wood
Bare wood is a porous substrate that holds air and moisture. Priming is suggested to ensure a smooth, uniform top coat. Priming will also prevent bleeding from your wood. Sand off weathered wood and replace rotten or water-damaged wood before painting.
Concrete
Water-damaged concrete has a sandy or gritty surface that comes off easily when rubbed. Remove this loose material by sanding or etching. Prevent water or moisture from penetrating underneath your paint or peeling will occur.
Darkly Painted Surfaces
If you are changing from a dark coat to a light coat, prime in order to cover your old color completely. Priming also helps prevent bleeding of your old color through your new top coat.
 
STEP 5
Apply a top coat
 
Aerosol Application
Apply aerosol paints outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Spray on smooth, even coats for a smooth, factory-like finish. Keep your can parallel to the surface of your object and move your can back and forth.
Brush Application
Apply brush paints with a high-quality brush or roller. For best control, hold your brush at the base of your handle (the end closest to the bristles).
 
STEP 6
Recoat if necessary
Follow recoating directions on your can. Apply a second coat of paint if necessary. Each product dries at a different rate. If you sand in-between coats, allow the full recoat time to dry before applying another coat (at recommended drying temperature).
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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